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CHAPTER III.

Journey from Baltimore to Buffaloe and Canada, in the Steamboat, to the Head of the Bay.—By Land to Philadelphia.—Manners, Produce, and Cultivation of the Country.—Further Proceedings.

June 14.—At five in the afternoon I started with my luggage, and after a pleasant run, arrived at French Town, at one o'clock this morn; till dark it was pleasant, being covered from the sun by an awning, and hardly a ruffle on the water.  After eating a cracker or two (biscuits), and drinking some iced water, we turned in till we came to shore, where we found the stages waiting, into which we hurried after fixing our trunks behind.  Coaches in America are like strong gentlemen's carriages, or hackney coaches, carrying no outside passengers.  The road being quite still, and the sides of the coach open, (they are of leather, and can be opened or shut at pleasure), I amused myself by observing the motions of the numerous "fire bobs" (flies) flashing in the air like candles.  Arrived at Newcastle on the Delaware, at day break, eighteen miles from our disembarkation.  A canal is now cutting across, near here, from the Chesapeak Bay.  Saw some kind of hedges, like thorn, on our route, and some poor land and poor crops.  Arrived at Philadelphia between nine and ten o'clock; took breakfast on board, charge 2s. 3d. —dear but excellent living.  The Americans, I believe, live rather luxuriantly as to variety, in towns, and generally.  In Baltimore, the ship carpenter with whom I boarded, had a roast turkey once or twice a week, fowls, beef steaks, ham, sausages, and a kind of "pudding," similar to the latter; pies, soup, fish, &c.  A variety of the above formed every meal, and generally at least three kinds of vegetables, with coffee or tea at breakfast and supper.  Breakfast at eight, dine at twelve, and sup at sunset in summer, and six o'clock in winter.  Bread baked less, and meat generally cooked more, than is customary in England.  Too many of the Americans (and also emigrants) are whiskey drinkers to excess; and though they are seldom seen drunk, when on a "scale," or drinking frolic, are often seen near half-and-half, as it is termed in England; yet rarely exhibit the boisterous hilarity and noisy mirth, by singing, &c., which is so familiar to Johnny Bull in that state.  Good rye whiskey 1s. to 1s. 2d. per gallon, corn ditto less.  There are brewers in every town that sell mild new beer; and some old strong beer, brought from Albany, to be had at the taverns, which is sold as dear as in England.  The Delaware, up which we have been sailing, is a noble large river, and as fine scenery on its banks as I have yet seen in America.  Through heat of the weather the water is steaming, milk warm.

Arrive in Philadelphia, a place the more interesting for the generous and noble character of its worthy founder; one may easily discern the sound judgment of PENN, in his choice of a site for building the city.  Far enough tip the river to be out of danger of surprise from an enemy's fleet; on ground sufficiently high and dry for health, with an easy slope to the water for convenience of trade, &c., and the country round rich and fertile.  There are several English families leaving hereabouts, I am informed, for the province of Upper Canada, to procure land of government.  Took a walk into the country ; the soil in the vicinity of the town is a strong sandy loam; saw some excellent crops of wheat, barley, and rye, partly lodged or laired.  Wheat will be twelve or fourteen days before ripe, and rye eight or ten.  People busy with their hay and clover, which are pretty good crops, but they have stood till they are too old before cutting, which appears to be a too general practice where I have been; but the heat of the climate, and, consequently, quick growth and ripening of the grass, necessarily prevent the whole being cut down in proper order.  Engaged board and lodging at the New England Hotel at 2s. 3d. per day.  Nothing particularly striking in the town; no elegant public springs or monuments, &c., that I could see, as at Baltimore; streets not so spacious, but more regular and compact than the latter.  The country too flat for show, the finest object being the river and its opposite shore, about half a mile across, with a little island in the middle of it.  Steam and team boats continually crossing and re-crossing.  They are double boats, or two placed side by side, the paddles working between, with a deck across both, to take waggons, carriages, &c.  You may drive into them seated in any vehicle, and out on the opposite side on coming to shore, without the least danger.  A large bell is rang every time they make the shore, stop about ten minutes, ring again and off.

June 15.—Fine and moderately hot, thermometer 83, some few clouds occasionally give relief by interrupting the rays of the sun.  Whilst walking into the country and about the city saw some fine orchards and large gardens, which are kept in much better order, and also the farms, than they are generally in Maryland.  Orchards appear to bear well every where, even on the poor thin soils, although the trees on such are, of course, not large.  The markets are well supplied with meat of a good quality generally.  Beef and pork good, veal excellent and white.  Kidney beans 1s. 1 d. per peck.  Plenty of young potatoes, but hardly large enough yet.  I have not seen any Dutch turnips.  Great quantities of strawberries and cherries, the last rather dear but good, 2¼ d. per lb.  I recognise more of the English features here than at Baltimore.  A considerable number of Quakers, whose clothing is less formal than their brethren in England.  Have been introduced to some English families, of which there are a considerable number in this place.

June 16.—Started at six o'clock this morning, in a steamboat, for New York; landed at Bristol; then twenty-six miles by stage, nine passengers in each, the luggage behind, jolted along a rough road, smothered with dust, through Trenton, Princeton, Queenston, and Kingston (in the state of New Jersey); the last three towns the only relics of monarchy left.  Stage horses pretty good; they change them quick.  Taverns slovenly conducted, like most other common ones in the country.  Took steam at Brunswick again, down a small river; dined on board, charge high, 3s. 4½ d., to be sure we lived well, were the meals not so hurried (bell rings, a rush—eat—off in a few minutes), fish, flesh, and fowl, puddings, pies and tarts, brandy, &c. &c.; the fare was very low, through opposition, 196 miles (26 of them by stage), luggage included, for 11s. 3d. only.  A gentleman on board, from Carolina, who had a number of pieces of native gold from that state, where so much has of late been found on the surface of the soil, and in water courses ; one of the pieces, he said, was worth twenty-eight dollars, very fine, and in a shape it might be supposed to form, on being dropped into sand in a melted state.  There is something striking in the views of this county, arising probably from the glowing brightness and warmth of the atmosphere, aided by a wide expanse of water, surrounded by woodland scenery.  I was led to this observation by the beautiful prospects presented on approaching New York.  A bright serene air, and cloudless sky—a gentle breeze—ships sailing, others at quarantine—fishing-boats here, steamboats there.  Houses rising every minute, as we approach, on each hand, on the eminences and slopes, intersected with woodland scenery, and enclosures with cattle and sheep grazing in them.  In front the city, with its spires—the masts of the numerous shipping along the wharfs, all presented to the sense of vision nearly at once, caused a most pleasing sensation.  An American passes such a scene and the dullest objects with equal indifference.  Indifference and shrewdness are the most striking features in the character of an American.  They are never intoxicated with joy at success, nor depressed to despondency; defeated in one object, they are planning and calculating on the success of another; never at a loss for an expedient; generally content, if not cheerful; never lose their confidence, or are thrown off their guard by passion; this nonchalance arises probably from equality in circumstances and much intercourse by travelling.  But to return,—we landed, and after some search for lodgings, took my trunks to a tavern in Albany-street; 6½ d. for lodging, and 1s. 1d. for each meal; five beds in the room I sleep in, occupied by civil and respectable decent-looking young men, who gave me not the least molestation.  No suspicion was attached to going to and from the bedroom at any time of the day, which I think speaks very favourably of the honesty of the Americans.

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